Stein - Palmberg Kabinett Trocken 2020
Palmberg is the mighty mountain of the Stein family (and now Philip Lardot). Here, it's incredibly steep slopes, surrounded by dark forests, reach up high on to the mountain, which for part seems covered in gnarly, old vines. It's a place where you just can feel the place's history. Inhabited since Roman times, this tiny village of only 611 inhabitants sports two churches, who's peaks interrupt the view of the Palmberg vineyard. A Roman villa has been found at the foot of the vineyard, however that has been covered now (except for a 3rd century grave) and your eye is constantly drawn to a little white church that was first mentioned in the year 1144.
It is in the middle of these stories that Stein's vines are living their old lives. Ungrafted, meaning they are not grown on American rootstocks, because the soils of this part of the Mosel are not too affected by Phylloxera. These old vines create wines with incredible depth, especially on these (again) incredibly steep slopes of 45 to 78(!) degrees. Wines that both cán age and maybe need to age before reaching their optimum form. We have been lucky enough to drink a large number of (both dry and offdry) wines from the '80s and 90's from the Palmberg and can testify that 30 years in the bottles really does not kill these wines, better yet; it transfers them to another galaxy.
Now, these Kabinett Trockens have been harvested in September 2020, fermented on their native yeasts and are then transfered to very (up to 80 years) old foudres (1000L barrels) to rest. They have been bottled in late May 2021 and until at least September 2021 are best to be left alone or put in a decanter for at least 20 minutes. This to blow off the sharpest edges and to soften the wine up. However, give it another six months in bottle and this wine will give you a pure, uncut and satisfying look into this ancient wine region. Flavors of citrus, quince and a hint of dovenetel. With a few months, years or decades this wine will move more and more into the direction of honey, overripe citrus and perhaps some petrol. A wine we love.